was convinced that it was just the food and service. He was adamant that nothing else mattered and that a really good menu, well served, was literally, everything. I was not about to give up on my personal notion that a restaurant is the sum of its parts, a complex interaction of ambiance, decor, food, wine, service and much more, that gives a place that special feel. Worried that I might not convert my opponent to my point of view, I searched my mind for the ultimate clincher. "What about Gracie's in Providence?" I said, slamming home my proof point. Let me tell you why this is such a great example...

Gracie's is a transplant from Federal Hill down to the very heart of Providence, opposite the Trinity Rep Theater. It's a beautifully renovated location that is a tribute to Ellen and Michael Gracyalny's eye for a good restaurant idea. Gracie's literally envelopes your senses as you walk in the door. The decor is a soft wood and modern art work themed room, that is warm and inviting, with a very luxurious feel. The staff are attentive and professional and the food and wine is superb. It really is the sum of its parts and they add up to one of my favorite restaurants in Providence. Needless to say, my argument was easily won in the end, mainly because I ranted on for so long about the place that I think he just wanted out!

We recently dined at Gracie's on a cold and windy Wednesday evening. They have valet parking so the usual downtown Providence parking hassle disappeared with a cheery greeting from the valet and we were inside and out of the cold in no time at all.

The hostess took us to one of the tables that is tucked out of the way. The restaurant has plenty of space for larger parties and secluded areas for folks who want some privacy. Downstairs is a beautiful wine room and a larger private dining area.

Wanting to capture the best of the place, we asked to try one of the tasting menus. They have several, ranging from a modest 3 course Theater Tasting, right up to a 9 course Chef's Tasting, that is definitely for the very hungry diner. We went for the 5 course menu and believe me we very satisfied, even though the individual dishes were small plates. It's amazing how they add up to a lot of food by the end of the meal.

Our first dish was Split Pea Soup, with a Smithfield country ham ravioli and petite truffled brioche. It was exactly right on for such a cold evening. I sipped a glass of Lily Pinot Noir (which is served by the glass) and discussed with Pia why this is such a remarkably nice place to eat. The service is impeccable. Always there when you need it, never getting in your way when you don't. Everything flows smoothly as your meal progresses and you relax into the moment and enjoy your food, wine and company. Ellen drifts 'round the dining room chatting with her guests and everyone seems to like the place as much as I do. The clientèle is a mixed crowd of business types, some younger folks and theater goers. The spacious bar has room for a quiet pre-dinner drink from the large and user friendly wine list.

Each dish that made up our meal was innovative and exciting. The soup was followed by a delightful amuse bouche of spicy crab salad with turnip and cranberries. Just a taste, but delicious. Following that were Diver Scallops served with Stonehouse cheddar and bacon polenta and grilled leeks with a tomato vinaigrette. The flavors melded together into a creamy and taste packed combination.

Each dish that followed seemed to be trying to trump the last, in terms of flavor and innovation. We dragged out our meal not really wanting it to end. A bit like kids during the holidays, we were getting all excited about what culinary surprise would come next. It was fun. You need to be hungry to get the best out of a tasting menu, but it's definitely worth a try.

So there you have it. A restaurant that demonstrates the "sum is greater than its parts" principal and living proof that attention to detail can create a really fine dining experience. Gracie's is a warm, inviting and luxurious place to enjot fine food that becomes almost decadent if you venture into the tasting menus. I unreservedly recommend Gracie's as one of the best restaurants in Providence.