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 East of Paris
 by David Bouley
 A review by James Ringrose - March 2006

I have never really considered Austrian cooking much beyond strudels and wiener schnitzel. So I was pleasantly surprised when I picked up "East of Paris", the new cuisines of Austria and the Danube, by David Bouley.

East of Paris features Austrian cuisine as interpreted by David. Universally respected as a highly influential chef, David has been recognized since 1987 by a variety of august bodies including the James Beard Foundation.

East of Paris embodies the characteristics of the ideal cookbook. It's a beautifully presented hardback cookbook with over 345 pages packed with recipes and pictures. You cannot help but to decide to cook something as you look at the lush illustrations that accompany virtually every recipe.

I had no idea that there were such a broad range of dishes in Austrian cooking. While some of them have some very strange names, the ingredients are familiar and the dishes generally delicious. David embraces the Austrian culture in this book and includes classic cooking techniques and regional dishes that make it all the more authentic.

Aimed squarely at the home cook, there is a good range of complexity, making it easy to use this cookbook for a midweek dinner or a weekend dinner party. The book is broken into sections including fall, winter, spring, summer, signature dishes, traditional sweets and coffee house favorites, pantry, wine notes and sources. The pantry section is very handy with details of basic stocks and techniques. The wine section is just one page and not particularly helpful.

Pia's mother is Austrian and as a result she claims to be the world's expert at goulash soup. Actually that's not fair of me, she really does make a great goulash soup. You can tell how good it is because it definitely makes your nose run and wakes up your taste buds. David's recipe is reasonably demanding in terms of ingredients, but very easy to prepare. The secret of a good goulash soup is cooking it for long enough so the meat begins to soften and becomes really tender. This is a nice recipe with intense flavors and a rich velvety taste. We like it fairly spicy so we went heavy on the jalapeño. Although it's great for leftovers and reheats really well, we had none left after our tasting.

The signature dishes are the most complex and would be ideal for a dinner party. Marinated sea scallops with passion fruit and black truffle or warm beet salad with caraway seeds and walnut oil give you an idea of how innovative this book is. The pictures that accompany the recipes are excellent and give you a good hint as to how your efforts are supposed to turn out.

I'm getting really fond of cookbooks that are divided into seasons. There's nothing worse than finding a great recipe that calls for a vegetable not available at that time of year. By dividing the book into the four seasons, David has made it easy to select a recipe that you can be sure of finding the ingredients for. Some of the required items would need you to shop around a bit, but there is nothing too arcane and at the back of the book there is a handy list of sources.

So, overall this is a great cookbook. It could keep a home chef happy for a pretty long while. The dishes were definitely designed to maximize taste and flavor and to make heavy use of fresh ingredients. The cuisine of Austria is a surprise and a treat, especially for those unfamiliar with the area. I cannot recommend this book enough for anyone interested in expanding their repertoire beyond Italy and France.

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The Verdict:
Highs:
Great-looking cookbook with superb pictures and recipes to match. Good range of recipes, carefully laid out and easy to execute. Good value for money with over 345 pages and 100 plus full-color pictures.
Lows:
Hardly any. Only the wine section disappointed.
Buy it?
Definitely a lovely cookbook for anyone interested in trying Austrian cooking and wanting both the latest and traditional recipes.
 
The Facts:
Jasper White 50 Chowders
Author:David Bouley with Mario Lohninger, Melissa Clark and Thomas Schauer.
Description: 346 pages, hundreds of recipes each worth a full color picture, plus notes and resources, hardcover.
Food Type: Up to date "New Austrian" food, covers traditional as well as the latest styles. Well within the home chef's capabilites.
Cover price: $34.95 (as always, check out Amazon for the best price).
The Food:
Book Review
Goulash Soup - tender, oh so tender meat, a rich velvet texture and plenty of spice - yum!
About The Author and Co-Authors

David Bouley was born and raised in Connecticut. He worked in restaurants from an early age, spending time in New Mexico, Cape Cod, and eventually France. After studying at the Sorbonne, he worked for some of Europe's most acclaimed chefs, including Roger Verge, Paul Bocuse, Joel Robuchon, Gaston Lenotre, and Fredy Girardet. Bouley first became interested in Austrian cuisine when he worked as a cook for the Vienna Park restaurant in New York City at the beginning of his career. In 1987, he opened his own restaurant, Bouley, in Tribeca. It earned four stars from the New York Times and received James Beard Foundation awards for best restaurant and best chef. From 1991 to 1996, Bouley was rated the #1 restaurant in the Zagat survey. In 1997, Bouley Bakery opened to enormous acclaim, earning David his second four-star review in the Times. In 1999, David opened Danube, featuring his interpretation of Eastern European cuisines. In February 2002, Bouley Bakery was relaunched as Bouley, picking up where David's first restaurant left off. East of Paris is his first cookbook.

Mario Lohninger, a native of Leogang, Salzburg, began his culinary career at an early age. After studies in Salzburg, Munich, and Paris, Lohninger worked with Wolfgang Puck, preparing meals for the Hollywood elite. He is the executive chef at the three-star, James Beard Award-winning Danube restaurant in New York City.

Melissa Clark has written sixteen cookbooks, including The Last Course: The Desserts of Gramercy Tavern, with pastry chef Claudia Fleming. A freelance food writer, she is a regular contributor to the New York Times and Food & Wine, among other publications.

Thomas Schauer, from Vienna, works with advertising agencies in Europe. He specializes in still life and food photography. His work has been published in various magazines, and he has contributed to two books.

©The Restaurant Review Cookbook Rating:
Many cookbooks look terrific and read like novels, but what happens when you take them into the kitchen to actually use them as intended? The Restaurant Review prepares items from the books that we review and we now have a finely tuned sense for those that work and those that don't. Below is our personal criteria for a good, practical cookbook.
Clear helpful description of each dish with serving suggestions
9
Clear, concise description of how to make the recipes, presented in logical order
9
Precise list of ingredients with accurate amounts
10
Helpful photographs and illustrations where needed
9.5
List of sources for difficult to get ingredients or use of everyday produce
9
Accurate number of servings produced by each recipe
10
Suitability for survival in the kitchen (paper quality, grease resistant ink, etc.)
9
Simple straightforward instructions in plain, easy to read and understandable English, with minimum page flipping required to complete a recipe
9
A good range and number of recipes covering the book's subject effectively
9
Usable well constructed, accurate index
10
 
Overall rating out of 10 :
9.35

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